Choosing The Right Paints For Your Outside Walls

Have you ever walked into a paint shop to buy paints, and the ONLY thing you know about paint is only a brand name and the colour you want to buy? And it is only later, after you’ve made all the effort to hire a painter (or to paint yourself) that you realize that the paint you bought isn’t working out as well as you’d like?

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One thing I realized after looking at articles and press releases from paint companies, is that their recommendation is always centred around their own products. While it is comfortable to stick to a famous brand name, I’ve found that sometimes the best results aren’t achieved by using the most famous or most expensive paints KAWS HOLIDAY SPACE – GOLD . I don’t see why I should pay a premium just to subsidise their marketing and advertising costs.

There are some general guidelines on the TYPES of paints that can be used for each area or application in a house. By using these guidelines, you can make an informed choice on the paints that you use in your homes, and not just blindly follow a brand name.

1. What type of paint should you get for outside walls? The paint specialists call these ‘exterior architectural paints’, what it means is that these paints are designed using pure acrylic resins because this type of chemicals are resistant to the damaging effect of the sun’s rays. However, these paints are also designed to be fungus resistant, and this is done by using fungicides to kill off the algae or moss that grows in all those damp places. So if you do have some left over outdoor paint from your paint job, please don’t use it inside your house where a child may accidentally eat the paint chips from the wall.

2. What if I see cracks on my walls? Cracks are usually caused by poor quality cement (i.e. too much water was used), or because the wall was painted before the concrete had fully set. If you see these defects, the first thing you’ll need to do is to remove all the defective paint from that wall. The most common solution is to use an acrylic crack-bridging paint on the wall. What that means is that a soft, flexible paint is used to cover the crack. This doesn’t mean that the crack is gone, it is merely covered up by the paint, and it won’t show up on the surface. This prevents water from entering the cracks, which can cause further damage to the concrete. One drawback about many crack bridging paints is that it is soft, so dirt can easily stick on it. This is why this type of paint should be used as an undercoat, not as the topcoat for the concrete. Without a topcoat to protect it, the crack-bridging paint can easily pick up dirt and becomes black.

3. I am seeing bubbles or fungus on the walls inside my house This is caused by water seeping into the concrete, either from outside, condensation from air conditioning, or even damaged water pipes inside the wall. The continuous inflow of water carries salts and other contamination from inside the concrete, and brings it up to form bubbles of water that is trapped underneath the paint. This moist paint becomes an ideal place for fungus to grow.

The source of water must be removed, either by repairing the pipe leakage, remove the cause of the water seepage and use a solvent based primer or a styrene-acrylic paint to prevent water from entering the concrete. It is usually best to use this paint on the outside wall, as the water is stopped at the source, rather than after water has soaked up the concrete like a sponge. Styrene-acrylic paints also have a stronger smell, so that is one more reason to use it on the outside walls. However, styrene-acrylic paints do need a topcoat, because the very thing that makes it effective against water, also makes it sensitive to sunlight. The paint will become yellowish if it is exposed to sunlight.

I want to have a chat about how to start a painting. And, a lot of art instructors, a lot of artists make a big deal about starting paintings a particular way because it is going to guide you through the painting process. And although there is some truth to that, I think the bigger, important picture is lost. I think what is really important is how you finish the painting and how the painting looks when it is done. It is true that different starting techniques will guide you in a certain direction, more not so much because they are specifically designed to do that as much as it is the philosophy behind why they do those particular starts. For example, a line drawing is how many people start and there are many different ways to do a line drawing and I will demonstrate a few of these very quickly in a few minutes.

A line drawing is where you will go through, either with a piece of charcoal or a pencil and you can also do it with paint. You will draw every element and do an outline of every element and that is what we call line drawing. And the point of that one is because drawing is so difficult at first, when you first begin to paint, that you need some way to manage the complexity of all of that drawing particularly in a complicated still life or figure, or portrait or even a landscape. So, that is the point of a line drawing.

Now there are a lot of different ways to do a line drawing. You can put it on lightly with thinned paint, I have seen people do the whole thing in charcoal and then come back and paint over it, the advantage and the disadvantage of that is it becomes a sort of paint by numbers kit and you simply go in a fill in the spaces with the different colors.

That makes it pretty easy but it also loses some of the artistic flow of the whole painting. I think a lot of the hyper realist painters paint this way, at least some of the ones I have seen do. Okay, so that is the line drawing and there are a whole bunch of ways to get the lines on the canvas. You can trace them, I have seen people buy projectors and they project it on or you can grid off the whole canvas and grid off a photograph and transfer it all that way to get the drawing just right. And, don’t misunderstand me. I am not knocking this technique. I think this is a pretty good technique. It is just that the limitation of it is that you will have a tendency to want to paint up to the lines and then you leave the lines and the painting will have more of a cut out look about it rather than a painting that has a feeling of flowing. There is not a problem with tracing or projecting. I have seen people blow up their photograph to exactly the size of the canvas, they will take it to Kinko’s or some sort of print place and then they will get transfer paper which is kind of like carbon paper for us old timers and they will just lay the picture down on top of the transfer paper and then just trace it onto the canvas and it instantly transfers it on to the canvas. It does help to do this but it is not a cure all and I’ll tell you why. As soon as you start painting, those lines will probably be obliterated and disappear and the drawing will start to go off so you will end up having to fix it and draw it anyway. The advantage is that you will at least have some sort of a starting point to where you can work from that.

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